Venice Carnevale

Festival Location: Venice, Italy

Festival Type(s): Carnivals , Street Parades , Parties

Festival Photos of Venice Carnevale: gallery 1

Venice Carnevale

by © Joanne Lane 2008

I went to Venice for two nights during Carnevale and stayed a week. The only reason I left was because it ended. I felt like a character in Ernest Hemmingway's "The Sun Also Rises", unable to decipher day from day or hour from hour.

A time warp wrapped around me where nothing else mattered but the Carnevale - the party, the costumes, the continuation of the celebration of life and dance. I had to call a friend at home to talk to someone from the real world and to check what day it was.

Carnevale is the last let your hair down before Lent, held 10 days before Ash Wednesday in late February. When the town population and an entourage of international visitors don gob stopping masks in an endless masquerade along the watery and often snowy Venetian backdrop.

It's elegant, refined and fun - a huge impromptu street party with spontaneous gaiety, entertainment acts, crowd interaction and an excuse to dress up. Bands play in the main square, free food is served on some islands, people dance in the street and masqueraders parade by the canals. In Italy they love a show and this one is the biggest on earth.

This theatrical resuscitation of the extravagant 18th century bacchanalia first drew tourists during the final heydey of the Serene Republic. Today it has become a show case for the city and shops are filled year round with masks, cloaks and robes so not only can people plan months ahead, but tourists are tempted to come back to see the real thing. But as with many modern Italian festivals a lot of the tradition has continued.

I arrived in Venice in the last week of Carnevale at 6am when the dawn was just breaking over the canals. When only the rubbish collectors grace the streets, ferreting animals, early morning shop keepers and the first boats chugging along the canals. These made smooth creases in the silky depths - vessles overladen with fresh bread for breakfast and various supplies of wine and food.

This was my second time to Venice but already I could feel something was different. Venice had transformed. It wasn't just the visible evidence - remains of confetti, tattered masks and people in costume coming home late from Carnevale parties.

It was like something was building up, stewing under the surface. That time was moving towards something important. I felt it as I meandered through to San Marco square. In this almost deserted arena make up artists were setting up, preparing their own faces to act as billboards for later passers by. Little stalls with ridiculously priced films, masks and other souvenir items were also opening. The cafes were already trading.

The pigeons and the church of San Marco, usually features of interest in the square, were photographed half heartedly. Today was not their show and everyone knew it. We were all waiting. For what I don't know.

I sipped a coffee and watched the pigeons. 8am passed. I yawned and ordered another coffee. At 8.30am I took a turn around the square. 9am. I tried to settle by the makeup artists. Finally at 9.30am a group of pigeons took off in flight, I turned and there were three masqueraders entering the square. Cameras suddenly appeared from everywhere. A photographers pit developed in front of them as they poised, swooned and caressed by the monuments, gondolas and canals.

Their sullen, solemn masks were eerie in their expressionless gazes. A Charlie Chaplin look alike appeared, then two old English sailors, a jester; and with them came the crowds, the bands and the revelry.

Within an hour there was only elbow room. The makeup sellers did a roaring trade, street bands set up and people danced and sang, threw confetti, sang on the gondolas and partied.

In the afternoon there were costume parades, soccer games in costume, music and still the street parties continued. I stood next to an elderley gent who accosted a television camera and told the world where he was from in almost indecipherable English. We watched the parades together, he yelled at the models to wait while he got his camera ready and told the announcer not to speak in Italian.

In smaller piazzas free hot wine, soup and fritters were served to anyone walking by. A party started around their tables. A group of men began singing, a couple danced and everyone cheered. It went on and on.

Later that night as people tired and went home either to get a few short hours sleep before the continuation of festivities the next day or to prepare for post midnigt parties; crowds waiting by the trachetto's (ferries) were joined by music groups also leaving the piazza. The bands would strike and the crowd would soon be cheering, clapping and dancing.

It's at moments like these when you realise the Carnival becomes part of life in Venice for these few short weeks. Even a mundane activity becomes part of the festivities. At any moment when you are waiting for a ferry, queing for the bathroom or buying film; someone may set up a band next to you, serve some food, dance in the street, parade by or partake in Carnevale revelry.

So it wasn't until I walked through the door of my hotel and closed it behind me that I was able to leave the Carnevale that had followed me home on the boat with masqueraders and musicians and their violins, banjos and crowd hopping, clapping music.

And so the spell of Carnevale was also cast on me. I met some American backpackers who dolled me up with "truco" (make up) each day. And by the end of the week I was struggling around in a special Venetian cape, covered with truco and a ridiculous tri cornered hat.

Swept along in a revelry towards I don't know what... perhaps midnight Tuesday when Lent begins, a period of self sacrifice and deprivation. More often probably exhaustion and post party blues. I didn't want to wait that long. Keen to keep the memory alive and leave before it all ended I snuck out as I had come in. When the rubbish collectors, ferreting animals and shop keepers were putting away Carnevale for another year.

MORE ABOUT VENICE

Following years of Byzantine rule Venice evolved into a republic and was ruled by dodges (chief magistrates) for 1000 years. During this time the city grew in power and dominated half the Mediterranean, the Adriatic and the trade routes to the Levant. There are 117 small islands, 150 canals and 400 bridges which are all best explored on foot. And many of these are quiet and tourist free.

WHEN TO GO

Carnevale is held at the end of February. If you want the chance to explore Venice at a quieter time avoid the summer months and the Carnevale period. Winter is wet and cold.

OTHER THINGS TO SEE

Include a trip out to the islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello on your trip where they make glass and lace. Venice also has a wealth of churches and the Peggy Guggenheim museum contains a modern art collection set in a sculpture garden. The Festival of the Redeemer in July features a fireworks display and marks the 1578 deliverance from a plague. The Regatta Storica (Historical Regatta) is the first Sunday of September. This race along the Grand Canal is an extravagant seagoing parade with decorated gondolas manned by crews in period dress.

GETTING THERE AND AROUND

Venice is accessible by train and boat. Trains leave daily for major points in Germany, Austria and the former Yugoslavia. Ferry and hydrofoil services operate to Greece all year round and Croatia in summer, and there are day trips to the Istrian peninsula. Boats (vaporetti) are the only option for getting around Venice. One or three day passes are the most cost effective.

WHERE TO STAY

Accommodation can be difficult to find and pricey, particularly during festivals. Book ahead or stay just outside Venice. The tourist information centre at the train station provides a list of hotels, pensiones and hostels.

Check out loads of Joanne's wonderful work at her website, www.VisitedPlanet.com.

by Joanne Lane

Festival Photos of Venice Carnevale: gallery 1