Solstice at Abu Simbel

Festival Location: Abu Simbel, Egypt

Festival Type: Solstice Events

Solstice at Abu Simbel Media:

Abu Simbel

By: © Graham Raith 2009

Abu Simbel is reached from Aswan either by air or by bus. Air is quicker, means a later start in the morning, but is obviously more expensive. Taking the bus involves a very early rise, but you do get to see the sunrise over the desert, and the views during the drive. We went by air (I'm not a morning person!), but those on our boat who took the bus thoroughly enjoyed the trip, on the whole. Whichever way you get there, Abu Simbel is worth the trip ten times over!

Possibly the most astounding piece of Pharaonic Egyptian architecture, Abu Simbel was built by Ramses II, the most prolific pharaoh in terms of building works, and no mean military commander either. It marked the border between Egypt itself and the southern nation of the Nubians. There are two temples, both originally built into a rock face. The Great Temple is dedicated to Ra, the sun god, and also really to Ramses himself. The smaller temple is dedicated to the cow goddess Hathor and also to Ramses II's favourite wife, Nefertari. The Great Temple is over 100 feet high and 120 feet across, and has four 66 foot statues of Ramses II on his throne guarding the entrance, whereas the smaller temple has four 33 foot statues of Ramses and two of Nefertari.

In the Great temple, through a hypostyle hall containing eight columns depicting Ramses II - not the most modest of Pharaohs - is an inner sanctuary with statues of Ra, Ramses II, Amun and Ptah seated against the far wall. At the solstices, twice a year, the dawn sunlight is aligned to light the entire length of the temple, lighting up three of the four statues, but never touching that of Ptah, the god of darkness.

If this "miracle of the sun" is the first miracle of Abu Simbel, the saving of the temples is the second. The building of the High Dam at Aswan meant that the original site would be flooded, and the temples lost under the waters of Lake Nasser. An international rescue effort was mounted, and the temples cut onto blocks and removed to their present, higher location, set into a concrete supporting bowl, and retaining the original precise orientation to preserve the "miracle of the sun".

For me, this was the highlight of my week's cruise - I was rendered almost speechless. If you go to Egypt, don't miss Abu Simbel!

by Graham Raith

Solstice at Abu Simbel Photos:

Solstice at Abu Simbel Dates and Location

Solstice at Abu Simbel takes place twice a year - February 22 and October 22. Abu Simbel is located in the heart of Nubia and is accessible by road or air from Aswan.