Vegetarian Festival

Phuket Vegetarian Festival

Article by: © Dawn DelVecchio 2012

Deafening fireworks, raucous drums, colorful flags, floats and flowers, the pungent smell of Chinese herbs, and a procession of trance-induced young men and women, bodies and faces punctured by objects as diverse and bizarre as swords, mechanical tools or plant life...welcome to Phuket's Vegetarian Festival!

Each autumn for nine days during the ninth month of the Chinese lunar calendar, Thailand's Phuket Town is transformed from a provincial capitol to a sacred site of extremes. During this period, the island's ethnic Chinese community abstains from meat and performs acts of self-mutilation in order to placate the gods. The annual event, called Jia Chai in the local Hokkien dialect, was initiated more than 150 years ago following a deadly outbreak of an unknown tropical malady.

In the early 19th century, Phuket was a rural, tin mining region covered in jungle and dominated by Chinese immigrants. Miners bent on making a better life for their family settled the area and worked hard, building prosperity for Thailand and eventually, for themselves. The population was significant enough to justify hosting groups of mainland Chinese opera performers from time to time.

On one such occasion in 1825, during the Chinese calendar's ninth lunar month, (late October, early November), the community and the performers were hit with an undefined epidemic. While scourges were not uncommon in the area, it was the performers who initiated a tradition that literally changes the faces and tastes of the island each autumn from that time to this.

As community members young and old lay stricken, the troupe encouraged everyone to adhere to a strict vegetarian diet and some to perform trance-induced acts of self-mutilation in order to placate two of the Chinese 'Emperor Gods'. Following the rituals, the epidemic passed and the Chinese of Phuket enthusiastically embraced the practices taught by their guests.

Festivities commence each year with the raising of a great pole or Go Teng at each temple (Sadoh Kroh). It is from this pole that nine gods are invited to descend at midnight prior to the first day of ceremonies. Some say that the Hindu god Shiva also slide down the pole, adding their spiritual power. The event concludes nine days later with merit-making ceremonies and the gods are sent off with a huge fireworks display on the final night.

The festival is best known for its elaborate morning pageants. Daily parades include the procession of nine Chinese gods. Devotees dressed to represent one of the idols gather round the effigies which are carried on chariots or on the backs of decorated pick up trucks.

Noise defines these events. Fireworks explode almost continually and a plenitude of drums bang incessantly in the belief that loud noises scare away evil spirits who might otherwise be drawn to the rituals. Dragons, Chinese lanterns, flowers, music, fireworks, incense smoke, the pungent smell of Chinese root herbs, and the delicate scent of jasmine are the visceral backdrop to an almost surreal scene.

The most impressive (or shocking) participants in the parades are the Ma Song. Ma Song literally means entranced horse. The term refers to human dedicates who are said to be possessed by one of the gods. These religious devotees invite a god to 'enter' them during the festival, are said to manifest various supernatural powers and can be seen performing all sorts of acts of self-mutilation. In particular, Ma Song puncture body parts – especially the face – with peculiar objects. This apparent self-torture is intended to shift evil from individuals in the community onto themselves in order to bring good fortune to all.

Early one Saturday morning, on a narrow street of densely packed shop houses stained with soot, the skies goes unnoticed by a crowd of on-lookers. Past us march hundreds of Ma Song. Their tongues, cheeks, arms and other body parts punctured with needles, pins, mechanical tools, plant life, PVC piping and other items. Adepts claim to feel no pain and do not appear to show signs of injury. Those performing the most extreme acts of mutilation are often accompanied by one or two attendants who can be seen either supporting the ends of large, protruding objects, wiping brows, or clearing a path for them as they walk.

Float riding attendees pass out candies, colorful string bracelets and pictures of the gods while the gruesomely punctured Ma Song walk quickly, heads forward, eyes glazed. Other parade marchers appear to be in trance, wagging their heads from side to side and looking, if not blissful, at least pleasantly spaced out. Old women dancing to unheard rhythms; young people adorned in the colors of their particular deity suck on large pacifiers, a float of women dressed like brides wave and smile, young girls in traditional Chinese dress are conveyed on hand-drawn rickshaws, school children march in uniform and vehicles broadcasting music and ads over loud speakers are interjected between them all.

Lining the parade avenue are offering tables with tea, flowers, incense, bowls of dried rice, and fruit for the gods set atop gold pedestal trays with lantern-red trim. As various god-possessed Ma Song pass by, they are invited to pause for a small cup of tea or glass of water.

As the parade draws to a close the streets begin to empty, leaving only the media, a few stragglers and the truly devout to witness its conclusion. One very old man, deep in concentration, lights incense for his altar. His pure intent and tender countenance are reinforced by his totally white attire – including full head of hair. In silent meditation he makes his offering against the tail end of organized chaos and a receding wall of sound.

Vegetarian Festival Dates, Location and Further Information

Each autumn for nine days during the ninth month of the Chinese lunar calendar in Thailand's Phuket Town. Visit the Phuket Vegetarian Festival web site for up to the minute dates and details.

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